Conversion of Mini Cooper classic into electric car

I decided to convert an old Mini Cooper classic into electric car. It’s not as easy as I thought – but now after two years there’s light at the end of the tunnel. I planed to update the page regularly and try to post at least some pictures once a week . Glad to get any feedback, hints and inputs from you.

Besides: I use WordPress to update the page – a content management system for maintaining blogs and web sites – really an amazing tool – and it’s free.

14 Comments:

  1. HI ~
    I come from Taiwan, I also want to do the same thing like you.
    I decide to buy a 15KW(conti) power PSMS motor with controller from CHINA.
    And use 144V battery to drive the motor.
    Can you tell me which motor & controller you use??

    wait for your reply.

    • Hi Bommy,
      Sorry for answering late. I use a Curtis Controller (model 1238) in combination with a asynchronous motor called N50D2 from an Italian supplier. The motor has a rated power of 22kW and max power range of 28kW. Most guys who convert a car with combustion engine into an electrical vehicles use Curtis controllers. They are very reliable and offer a lot of options. Besides the controller topic please be aware that the Mini Cooper Classic is a nice car but really not easy to convert …. gear box and engine are one unit and therefore several mechanical adoptions are needed on motor side. If I could start again I would choose a VW beetle as donor car. It is much easier to convert. Good luck and let me know in case you need further information … Greetings from Switzerland Eric

      • My motor is rated 15KW, Peak 30Kw PMSM motor with its own controller.
        I am thinking how to connect motor to mini manual gearbox.
        It’s not easy, My battery is 20KW from CATL, it very light(anout 110KG with 10 modules) and small. So it can integrated with motor & controller in the engine room.

        • 15kW with 30kW peak looks quite good. Do you have any torque data (or general motor data – voltage, current, torque, rpm)? I could then compare to mine an let you know what you can expect from ride quality point of view. If you write me by mail I will give you some more insights how I did the coupling of motor and gearbox.

          BR Erich

  2. Do you have email ? I think we can discuss many thing about the conversion

  3. just mail the data to you , The motor rated RPM is 5000, max RPM is 7000, it’s higher than the original engine. The max torge is 90NM , the max voltage is 170V, so I use 40 cell (40×4.2=168V)

    • Hi Bommy, Will study your drive data in the upcoming days and give you then a feedback regarding my opinion and fact. I am a bit in a rush due to the Christmas ahead of us. Some projects in the company need to be finished by year end. I will give you some ideas how you could couple motor and gear box. Besides: Your battery seems to be very sophisticated – nice 20kWh (kilowatthours) with 110 kg that would be fantastic. Can you provide me some further data regarding the cell or package. I am really interested to get further details.
      Keep you posted ….. Erich

      • I dont have detail data, The cell is maked by CATL(http://www.catlbattery.com/en/)
        I just knew the cell is 70ah(max voltage is 4.2V) and one cell is 1.25KG, I use 80 cells for 20KWH, include the module shell , it’s about 115KG. The totoal battery dimension is about 60X30X36CM

  4. Erich, great project you have here. Any chance you would be willing to manufacture and sell EV conversion kits for classic Mini? I would love to convert my mini.

    • Hi Dom,
      Thanks for your feedback. Well I have planned to rework the drive-train. Since I am driving always in the 3rd gear I had the idea to couple the electrical motor including converter directly with a differential and to throw out the entire gearbox. Such a new power-train-unit would then be an ideal conversion-kit. However it will take some time to design and test the unit. Please contact me again early next year (in case you are still interested) .. why not producing then two units instead of one.
      Cheers Erich

      • Put me down too for a conversion kit too if and when you ever decide to sell them. I am partial to your current design because I think it will work well across all 3 forms of the mini gearbox (magic wand, remote, rod change) a bit easier. But I do agree it seems pointless to use parts you ultimately don’t need. Plus, being from California, it’s probably a lot easier to mail me the adapter plate and most of the smaller components needed than a whole new power unit complete. I’ve been wanting to do this for so long but I do not have the tools or know how to do it myself from scratch.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *